An Experienced, Hard-Knocks RVer Shares:
What New RV “Residents” Need to Know
Camping in an RV because of disaster is a steep learning curve
To get the long story of why I’ve spent the past 20 years on the road, living full-time in a camper, you’ll have to read my memoir, Dismazed and Driven — My Look at Family Homelessness in America. Suffice to say, I’ve learned a lot about RV life since I first hopped behind the wheel.
It is some of that knowledge I’m compelled to share, particularly with those who’ve recently lost housing due to the plethora of natural disasters we’ve seen across our country. Good-hearted people are donating campers, aka RVs, by the truckload to at least give folks a place to stay. In the Asheville, NC area, not far from where I live in my camper, people are still struggling for safe housing, with groups like Hope for Crisis lending a hand.
Winterizing the campers is keeping Bosse busy. With some campers taking two days of work to fully winterize, Bosse works alongside one other volunteer through Hope for Crisis to protect the RV’s and travel trailers from the elements. Citizen Times, 1/14/25
Twenty years ago, when I had never been in an RV, I sold my home and bought a modest-sized Class C (pictured above) camper to solo travel across the country documenting family homelessness. I had no clue what I was doing. I learned, and I’m still learning, still living in a camper.
I can’t help but worry about folks, especially here in western North Carolina’s mountains, where an Arctic blast is barreling our way. Freezing temps have all kinds of challenges, and in RVs they’re even more challenging.
In the spirit of compassion, I’m rushing this post out, hoping that readers will share it ala social media so this info can get in front of the people who need it.
You might be one of the millions displaced by disaster. You landed in a camper, maybe for the first time, or maybe not. But you’re not traveling to national parks, you’re stuck in what might be a crowded lot with too many other campers, all disaster refugees or workers there to clean up after the disaster.
You may have lost everything and are now in a 100+ sq. foot “living space” called a Recreational Vehicle that someone donated. Or maybe it’s yours, salvaged from the backyard or storage area. You’ve maybe never been in one before (like me, before I got started 20 years ago). Or you’ve done some traveling, frivolously enjoying the countryside. It’s different now.
This is my humble, well-intentioned attempt to share lessons I learned the hard way over my past 20 years as a full-time RVer. These are merely my observations and suggestions which may apply to you, or not. They’re offered in good faith, not promoting products or guaranteeing results. They are tips and lessons I’ve learned along the way, often the hard way.
Honor Your Systems
When looking for campgrounds, “full hookups” can be an option. I hope that’s what you have. These three systems are vital to someone “camping” for any extended period. They are things we take for granted in normal circumstances. Not so in campers.
Electric
Hopefully you have a reliable source of electricity. You need to pay closer attention to usage, as your source isn’t infinite.
Amperage where you’re plugging in is usually 15, 30, or 50 amps. Those numbers are important. They’re the capacity that limit your usage. Think of it as economy, middle, or rich. The lower the amperage, the more careful you have to be about how many watts you’re using, e.g. hairdryer and space heater. And don’t skimp on extension cords that hook up your camper to the outlet. Thicker gauge is better/required, depending on your usage.
High wattage usage (space heaters, hairdryers, etc.) adds up and can cause anything from breakers tripping (internal or external) to fire (RVs are extremely flammable and toxic). Learn where your internal circuit breaker box is and how it works (similar, but not, to household breakers). Learn what trips the inside breaker, and try to avoid doing it. Learn what trips the outside breaker and how to reset it. Try not to make that happen often. If you’re plugged into someone’s house, ask about the circuit’s limits (and where the breaker box is).
• Water — This is where you’ll acquire deep appreciation for limited water supplies. You have three sources of water, theoretically. You might have an outdoor spigot or hydrant. You might be limited to a water source that’s not free-flowing. And you will likely have an interior tank, No matter, care must be taken to rigorously conserve water because your incoming and outgoing issues matter.
A good hose, one rated for drinking water, is essential or you’ll have the nasty garden hose taste (or worse) in your drinking and household water supply.
Make sure the hose is secure, not leaking at either the RV hookup (“city water”) or the source.
Here’s where it gets tricky in areas with freezing temperatures. When your source freezes, you’re out of luck. It’s wise to disconnect the hose after filling jugs with that precious liquid. Or, if resources allow, get an insulated hose. Protect the hydrant or spigot from freezing.
Just remember, the incoming water needs to go somewhere, and those options are limited. Introducing your gray and black septic “system” that will be your best/worst friend.
Septic “Systems”
This was my harshest lesson. I had no idea how to process waste in my camper and, even after I learned the basics, I learned other related essentials the hard way. DDN
Hopefully, your camper is connected with an external septic system. You need a special hose for that. Treat that hose like it’s sacred! Leaky, um, stuff is gross and unsanitary. Pay attention to how to securely attach the hose to both your rig and the drain hole.
(Big difference between gray and black waste liquids. The gray is the “nicest” and easiest to deal with, but not to be done casually.)
All the water you use — washing your face or dishes, showering, etc. — goes down the drain into the gray tank. Know your tank’s capacity and how fast you typically fill it up so you can stay ahead of the flow.
Don’t be casual about what goes down your drains. Be vigilant. You won’t see the stuff building up on those plastic pipes, but it will quickly matter, and will gurgle up into your sink, and/or out the exterior openings that act as vents for these drains. Your standard household approach to clogged drains won’t be the best to apply in your camper. So don’t put gunky stuff down your drains, ever!
Black waste is poop and pee. The sooner you get comfortable “dealing” with this, the better. It goes into a separate tank, but ends up coming out the same valve as the gray waste water.
Know your tank’s capacity and how fast you typically fill it up so you can stay ahead of the flow.
You need a specific place to dump these liquids, especially the black. You’ll either have a sewer hookup or need a portable tank that then needs proper disposal, hopefully somewhere convenient. I’ve never used the portable option. I’ve had enough variety of experiences with dumping black waste to fill a book.
The most important suggestion — know your capacity and don’t exceed it. Depending on how many people are making “deposits,” you’ll want to empty frequently. You can’t rely on whatever gauge in your camper for capacity. Use a commercial dissolver, sold at RV stores and other vendors.
One thing I learned early on — don’t put toilet paper down the toilet. It further taxes and clogs the system, even “RV-friendly” tissue. Rig a separate container that can be sealed and easily emptied. I use dog-poo bags inside a container with a lid.
Don’t leave the exterior dump valves open to constantly empty. Figure a schedule that coincides with capacity and stick with it, religiously! If you leave your hose connected, make sure it’s empty. Clogs are ugly.
The dumping process can be gross, and you’ll likely have your share of adventures with it. I don’t use gloves, but most people do. Pay attention to how your waste hose hooks up. Know that when you open the valve on your rig, it will cause your hose to jerk, and that can get ugly! Empty the black tank first, followed by the gray to sort of rinse your disposal hose. How you further rinse and store the hose is up to you.
Big warning: PROTECT YOUR SEPTIC SYSTEM FROM FREEZING!
Easier said than done, but if your gray/black tanks freeze, well, picture the possibilities. Anticipate the upcoming cold spells and be empty to start. Go as easy on input as possible. Putting RV antifreeze down the drain and toilet before temps get below freezing can help, but it limits your capacity. A hairdryer may thaw the output valve area, but maybe it won’t.
Protect Your Sanity
• Limited Space Needs Limits — When I first moved into my 28’ Class C camper, I was downsizing from a 2-bedroom townhouse. I had sold most of my stuff, and thought I whittled possessions down to reasonable. Not even close. I had never RVed before so I had no idea what was essential and what was not.
Space is extraordinarily limited, so be prepared to shed your precious belongings, including clothing. Space for kitchen appliances and equipment will be minimal, so ponder carefully.
Claustrophobia can be an issue, even if you didn’t have symptoms before. Do what you need to do to adjust to living and working in a confined space.
• A Place for Everything — This adage applies directly to RV living. The “luxury” of just dropping an item anywhere is not part of RV life. Put it away. For those who will be moving your camper, care must be taken to make sure things are safely stowed.Even if you’re not mobile in your camper, your space is extremely limited, and clutter will not be your friend.
Plastic bins are great for lots of reasons — organized storage, weather/critter protection, and portability. Making the most of your existing space is a challenge that some enjoy. I do. Most don’t. Bins have proven to be quite useful and flexible for me.
Accept RVs Shoddy Construction
• Go Easy on Structure — No matter the claims of your RV manufacturer, you will quickly discover the flaws and foibles of the inner and outer construction of your rig.
Overtaxing upper storage bins was my lesson. Not once, but twice, my overhead bins came crashing down. Yeah, I probably overestimated the strength of their connections and underestimated the weight of my books and stuff.
A friend, hearing of my bin crash, commented that RVs were not built to withstand even modest strain. That’s a good standard to observe. Don’t push too hard on valves and faucets. Don’t pull too hard on cabinet handles. You get the drift.
• Be Prepared for Inevitable — The inevitable is the hardest to prepare for — the possibilities are endless. The above-mentioned systems have no limit on ways they can fail. Having a small toolkit is advisable, with plenty of strong tape and glue. Before buying a bunch of tools, look at the types of screws and bolts, etc., that hold your rig together.
Rechargeable flashlights and lanterns are essential, as are power packs to charge phones and devices. Non-electric heaters and single burner stoves will be treasures when needed. Ice packs and coolers, depending on your storage space, may get you through short power outages.
• Lower Expectations — Your camper may be a welcome alternative to your now-destroyed home or a great option to a shoddy motel room, but it’s certainly not a perfect version of housing. Getting frustrated with its limitations will be pointless. Make it as comfortable as it can be.
Accept that the construction is imperfect. Your spatial arrangements are limited. Your maintenance obligations are gross. Your storage inadequate. Your wardrobe and personal belongings sparse.
Tips, Hacks and Suggestions
• Don’t Push Septic “Luck” — This aspect of RV life is one of the hardest for most people to adapt to. Long showers, casual sink usage, tossing stuff into the toilet, all those things that seem normal will create a nightmare.
• Know Your Capacities — Discovering you’re at your maximum capacity for the gray/black tank at an inconvenient moment (company coming, cold front moving in, etc.) will make you crazy and will cause a heap of gross problems.
• Simplify Your Food — Limited food storage space will “inspire” you to think twice about an extravagant cuisine. Simple and healthy will be the best options. Cooking odors will remain long after your delectable meal is devoured, so make your choices wisely.
Inevitable Annoyances
• Leaks Will Happen — If your rig is not leaking today, it will leak tomorrow, or the next day. Leaks are vexing. Anticipate the inevitable. Caulking the roof areas requires special caulk and is not a task to be taken likely. Plumbing leaks will cause no end of headaches, so don’t assume stuff stored under the sinks will be safe from damages.
• Winter Cold, et al, Will Find You — No amount of warnings will prepare you for the arctic blast (or other forms of bad weather). RVs are holy, er, hole-y. With endless places the cold can pour in, plus the lack of adequate insulation, it will seem like you’re living in an igloo. Furnaces gulp propane which runs out at the worst possible moment. Electric space heaters, if safely used, can suffice, but are limited by your electrical supply. Propane space heaters, the few designed for safe inside use, will also devour your propane supplies (usually the small canisters), but they’re effective. Do what you can to insulate the outside and then hunker down.
• Pipes Will Clog — The best an RVer can do is to be vigilant about what goes in the drains. Maybe preventative maintenance will help, but typically that’s a woulda-shoulda situation. Clogs happen at the worst moment. Don’t use toxic household products and whatever method you use, be careful. Pipes are fragile.
OTHER VEXING ISSUES
Critters — Understandable that mice and other critters will want to move into your space. Lots of things need to be done to prevent the havoc they’ll cause. Vigilantly plugging up any entry points is essential. Think like a determined mouse! Any and all entry points are fair game for these varmints.
Don’t leave anything out that will tempt them, even if they’re not evident at first. That’s where plastic containers come in handy (and after time even those are vulnerable).
Air Leaks — Some openings are easily identified and can be blocked. Do what you can to limit entry of cold air. This will be a source of constant discovery and much frustration.
External Weather-Proofing — Few sensible solutions exist to weather-proof the outside of your rig. Consider wind and other weather challenges and rig your tarps and other wind-blocking devices aggressively. They will whip around in the wind gusts, so fasten appropriately.
The best approach to surviving RV life is to appreciate the simple comforts. This needs massive adjusting if you’re new to RVing, especially if it is because of crisis.
Change your expectations. It’s better than a tent!
I’m thinking of expanding this info into an e-book. Your feedback on that would be appreciated. Pardon the length of this — I don’t do long posts lightly. DDN
